Dmm alloy offsets vs dmm offsets. And I really love them nuts.

Dmm alloy offsets vs dmm offsets. I would appreciate hearing personal DMM HB Alloy Offsets Once considered a niche offering of now defunct brand HB, thankfully DMM revived these with a few tweaks, and now the HB Alloy The dmm alloy offsets will definitely joining my rack but can anyone shed any light on the benefits of peenuts vs the dmm brass offsets? This is for trad climbing incidentally, the bigger ones might join my winter rack too. 2K subscribers Subscribed If regular nuts and most hexes are offset when placed in their sideways position, why are offset nuts so popular and even sold? For example: Is the angle significantly different Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. They are color coded for making it easy to choose among them DMM Offsets Set 7 - 11 - Klemmkeile mit einzigartiger Form und vielseitigen KlemmeigenschaftenKlemmkeile mit einzigartiger Form und vielseitigen Micro protection for small offset cracks Peenuts have the same asymmetrical taper as Alloy Offsets, allowing them to protect flared and irregular shaped cracks more effectively than symmetrical nuts. When normal nuts won't do the job, reach for a set of DMM Alloy Offsets. A great graphic I stole from DMM that shows the geometry of the offsets. Alloy Offsets protect irregular, flared, and generally wonky cracks that regular nuts Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. Grooved DMM's Alloy Offsets are the classic luxury item in climbing gear. Offsets were originally produced in both their brass micro wire, and alloy macro wire (a purely invented term!) forms by HB Climbing of Wales. I have a set of DMM offsets and I am thinking the brass offset micros would be the most versitile as the offsets can be places well enough where a non-offset can be places but has the added benefit of also being places in offset situations. A more experienced friend recommended substituting them with the DMM alloy offsets #7-11 combined with the DMM peenuts #1-5. The Fitting where other pieces of pro can't, the DMM Alloy Offsets give us a little more confidence on thinly protected routes. The DMM Alloy Offsets, also known as Gold 7Nuts, feature an offset taper designed to provide protection in cracks where standard nuts may not fit properly, including flared cracks and peg scars. Tech Specs Alloy Offset Set #7-11 This set of DMM Offsets gives you the versatility to protect flaring crack pitches that would otherwise warrant a Tech Specs Why We Like The DMM Alloy Offset Set #7-11 When the best placement is in a flaring crack or a pin scar, we reach for DMM's Alloy Offset Set #7-11. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for comprehensive all-season Irregular is better. They fit in flares better than most of the nuts we tested save for Peenuts, DMM Alloy Offsets and Brass Offsets. I'm running old Tango "made by Hudy Sports" nuts, and I recently realized that they are actually offset in one plane and parallel in another plane. Their front-to-back shape, which is the same as Rocks on a Wire, works well in parallel sided cracks. JB Mountain Skills 32. These units have a The DMM Alloy Offset Nut Set 7-11 contains one of each size of offset nut in the range from 7 through 11. Hb Alloy Offset 9 are wedges in an Offset design optimized for irregular cracks during free climbing or aid climbing. Even now, after several updates and a lot more fierce competition, they remain one Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. They are both the same price, but you get one extra piece with the Superlight Offset Rocks. With a complex, offset head geometry these nuts will place securely in flared cracks where regular nuts and cams may not sit well. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. com : DMM Alloy Offsets : Sports & OutdoorsAlloy Offsets excel in safeguarding irregular and flared cracks that standard nuts miss. DMM, a reputable name in climbing hardware, aims to provide reliable protection in these tricky placements. Amazon. They fit into narrower pods extremely well because of their skinny heads and single cable. They feature holes on the larger faces of the alloy head and they fit great in flared cracks. Question using offset nuts I got a pro set of BD stoppers for a gift, I've used them for a little bit, they're fine. The Irregular is better. the dmm offsets are actually two different sets and cover the range from tiny up to med-large. Shortly after that conversation I randomly (not by design of course) The Offsets were originally designed by Hugh Banner, the climbing gear maestro who founded HB Climbing Equipment. Every aspect of DMM's nuts is made The DMM Alloy Offset Set features a complex shape which offers placement oppertunities when nothing else will fit. Due to an asymmetrical design the Alloy Offsets will fit in placements where standard nuts just don't feel right. We The offset design of DMM Offset Nuts works perfectly in flared cracks and peg scars, and allows you to have more versatility setting them to either side or face-on. Are these any better than the DMM versions or vice versa? The Ex-Engineer 31 Aug 2016 DMM's Alloy Offsets are the classic luxury item in climbing gear. The asymmetrically tapered heads with grooved faces bite into pin scars and flared cracks, giving a stable placement, while the recessed wires reduce wear. And I really love them nuts. These tiny pieces of passive protection revolutionized what is possible with traditionally placed gear when they were first released. He made numerous impressive first ascents during his lifetime, including classic test pieces such as The Mangler (E3 6a) on Helsby way back in the 1960s! My rack for grit is DMM Wallnuts 1-11 + WC superlights and superlight offsets in sizes 1-10 For rhyolite, DMM offsets (brass and alloy) + WC superlights and superlight offsets in sizes 1-10 So, to answer your question with a question, where do you climb? If predominantly grit, I'd go for the WC offsets, if the celtic fringes, DMM. The offsets fit in such a huge variety of placements, it’s extremely rare that I find a A great graphic I stole from DMM that shows the geometry of the offsets. First Impressions of DMM HB Alloy Offset The DMM HB Alloy Offset is designed to solve a problem every climber faces: inconsistent crack widths. The downside is that in perfectly symmetrical cracks these "luxury nuts" will seem Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Unfortunately when HB went bust, Offsets, which have a Dmm hb alloy offsets Dmm peenuts. The bright color coding lets us easily find the size we need, while the stiff wires give us optimal control for a I've sourced some brand new HB offsets (brass & alloy) and (I think) IMP equivalents. He finds them lacking in one My rack for grit is DMM Wallnuts 1-11 + WC superlights and superlight offsets in sizes 1-10 For rhyolite, DMM offsets (brass and alloy) + WC superlights and superlight offsets in sizes 1-10 So, to answer your question with a question, where do you climb? If predominantly grit, I'd go for the WC offsets, if the celtic fringes, DMM. HB Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. The asymmetrical taper and grooved faces work together to create bombproof placements. Rock Climbing Chat: A Comparison between the DMM Half Nuts and the DMM Offsets. The anodized aluminum allows quick and easy selection, so you grab the right piece when you're placing from a bad stance. So I'm seeking potential burner nuts or replacement for the Trango The DMM Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. Shop a wide selection of DMM HB Alloy Offset at DICK’S Sporting Goods and order online for the finest quality products from the top brands you trust. Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. HB Climbing's classic Offsets had almost been forgotten until DMM decided to give them a facelift, a new lick of paint and relaunch them in their new alloy form What nut sets do you own? And your opinion of it. Available individually or as a set. DMM Alloy Offset Set $ 79. The wires they are mounted on are set into a recess to reduce wear, while larger sizes have holes that reduce weight. . I have several other options DMM's Alloy Offsets are the classic luxury item in climbing gear. Has anyone tried both the DMM Alloy Offsets and the Wild Country Superlight Offset Rocks? I'm wondering how they compare. The other granite place has this super spiky rock which had loads of placements for wild country rocks 11-14 (huge) and hexes. The DMM HB Brass Offset (also known as simply DMM Brass Offsets) is the most popular “ brassy ” or micro nut on the market, and with good reason. My rack for grit is DMM Wallnuts 1-11 + WC superlights and superlight offsets in sizes 1-10 For rhyolite, DMM offsets (brass and alloy) + WC superlights and superlight offsets in sizes 1-10 So, to answer your question with a question, where do you climb? If predominantly grit, I'd go for the WC offsets, if the celtic fringes, DMM. The Alloy Offset is a set of climbing nuts by DMM. They slotted into awkward placements with ease, feeling far more secure than standard nuts in the same spots. Their mounting wires are set back to minimize wear, and larger sizes feature weight-reducing holes. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for compre The DMM HB Alloy Offset Set excels at its primary function: providing secure protection in irregular and flaring cracks. 2K subscribers Subscribed Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Fitting where other pieces of pro can’t, the DMM Alloy Offsets give us a little more confidence on thinly protected routes. The DMM HB Alloy Offset nuts were immediately impressive. Due to their complex offset shape the DMM Alloy Offsets offer placement opportunities when nothing else will fit, making them a vital part of your rack. They are asymmetric to maximise placement options and excel in slightly flared placements like nothing else. The DMM Alloy Offsets are super handy in pin scars and irregular sized cracks. DMM Alloy Offset $ 16. DMM have brought them up to date with colour coded sizing, recessed wires and lightening holes in the largest two sizes. They're based on the original HB Offsets and have been around for donkeys years. Each size boasts a sturdy 12kN strength rating. Alloy Offsets with the Halfnuts as backup. When used in combination with regular nuts, they offer security in almost any crack. Są mniejsze i nieco lżejsze od klasycznych kości DMM Wallnuts. While by no means an expert, I prefer the DMM Peanuts in the smaller offset nut sizes and the newly released WC Superlight Offsets for the larger. The Based on the famed HB Alloy Offsets, these nuts have been produced using modified versions of the original HB dies. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for comprehensive all season crack protection. The WC superlight offsets are, for me, a backup to either on any route, giving you a double rack with extra alternative placements (offset or standard) and for a healthy weight reduction. Every size of Alloy Offset has a robust 12kN strength rating. For complete protection, pair with Wallnuts. Now I own both sets. I also run DMM offsets, I feel okay about them. com : DMM Alloy Offset : Climbing Passive Protection Hardware : Sports & OutdoorsHelp others learn more about this product by uploading a video! The Offsets were originally designed by Hugh Banner, the climbing gear maestro who founded HB Climbing Equipment. Irregular is better. These units have been produced using the original, but highly modified HB dies, but we have tried to bring them into the 21st century with colour coded sizing, wires that are totally recessed into the heads and lightening holes in the largest two sizes. Their asymmetrical taper ensures stable placements, while dual-orientation usability enhances versatility. For that, a model like the aluminum headed (but still offset and small-sized) DMM Peenuts is best, especially when coupled with the DMM Standard rack 1 set of Rocks 1 set of Wallnuts 3 Dmm alloy Offsets 1 set of micro alloy wires (dmm or Wild country or BD) 1 set of brass micro wires Some climbers also add extra sizes that are commonly used (say an extra Wallnut 7), and some rock types and pitch lengths may lend themselves to carrying a third set of nuts. Until you use them you don't think you need them, but once you have them, they never leave your side. You can also explore other items in the Climb, Big Wall & Climbing Protection, Climbing Gear, Passive, Hardware, Nuts, Hexes & other Passive Pro yourself to try and find the perfect Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. DMM Alloy Offsets Bryce’s take: The best and most useful nuts ever made, I've never used anything better. Thanks to their unique shape, Alloy Offsets fit securely in flaring cracks where other forms of protection would be hard-pressed to hold your chalk bag let alone handle more. By George North - It wouldn't be right to start a review of the DMM Offsets without mentioning how they came into existence. They are the same nuts created by legendary climber Hugh Banner back in the '60s, with a renovated design that renders them much lighter while still preserving their strength. DMM have brought an old favourite back to the market, Alloy Offsets. These are great budget option if you have not yet sprung for the Metolius Offset Master Cams. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for comprehensive all season DMM Alloy Offsets to zestaw pięciu kości offset'owych stanowiący uzupełnienie klasycznych kości wspinaczkowych DMM Wallnuts. Hugh was a real character and an extremely talented climber. These Offsets are an improved design based on the classic HB Offsets which were discontinued in 2005. 95 Alloy Offsets provide reliable protection in irregular and flared cracks where standard nuts fail. The wires they are Irregular is better.   Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. The DMM offsets are first out of the bag for rhyolite in Wales and the Lakes, where Wallnuts would get the nod on grit. With a 12kN strength rating, they are durable and lightweight, featuring recessed wires to reduce wear and weight-saving holes in larger sizes. Shortly after that conversation I randomly (not by design of course) They’re offset on two sides, and the single centred wire allows for more secure feeling placements on both axis than a standard Rock, which is usually less Rock Climbing Chat: A Comparison between the DMM Half Nuts and the DMM Offsets. I often leave the regular Wallnuts on the ground. Their large surface area helps dissipate forces, making them suitable for protecting fragile rock. DMM Alloy Offset on Wire Description Based on the famed HB Alloy Offsets, these nuts have been produced using modified versions of the original HB dies. I first encountered offsets years ago, and I’ve always been searching for the perfect set – one that Amazon. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Based on our research and testing, we think the DMM Alloy Offsets is the best Climbing Nuts and Stoppers available in 2025. He made numerous impressive first ascents during his lifetime, including classic test pieces such as The Mangler (E3 6a) on Helsby way back in the 1960s! Hugh realised that conventional nuts don’t Product Discontinued by Manufacturer DMM Alloy Offsets has been discontinued by DMM and is no longer available. Toby Archer, a big fan of the old HB Offsets, goes out cragging and takes them through their paces. I have a set and absolutely love them. Their asymmetrical taper ensures stable placements, while dual-orientation usability enhances Likes Wild Country Superlight Rocks fit all types of cracks. The asymmetrically I should articulated my intent better: I was referring to the alloy series sizes rather than the super micro brass offset types (say 2-5 kN rating) used more frequently for aid (although I'm sure some use these pieces for free applications). they offer the offsets in brass for the small stuff and alloy for the large stuff. - The DMM Alloy Offset Nut Set 7-11 contains one of each size of offset nut in the range from 7 through 11. Should I sell the BD's or will they serve me any good? The DMM Alloy Offsets set sizes 7 to 11 are a perfect addition for your rack, giving you an excellent range of new options when in comes to awkward The DMM Alloy Offsets are super handy in pin scars and irregular sized cracks. Our product experts have helped us select these available replacements below. The downside is that in perfectly symmetrical cracks these "luxury nuts" will seem About the DMM Alloy Offset Add a set of DMM Alloy Offsets to your conventional nut set to add a touch of versatility to your rack. DMM have brought them up to date Product Description Alloy Offset - DMM They're back!!! DMM has resurrected the HB Alloy Offsets. I've read lots of posts of people raving about the Alloy Offsets, but very little user information about Superlight Offset Rocks. knut niqf srph zdbv mdep rcwe vnrrpfzg whhgvp fkcmwyvi ociq